I recently sat down with Bertil Jean-Chronberg, Beehive's GM, to talk about the nearly one year old Beehive. If you believe the accepted dogma, a restaurant in a basement with bare brick walls and virtually no signs of its existence on the outside is in for a hard time. So much for dogma! Beehive has caught the dining public's imagination in a big way. Styled as an “eatery and bar”, adorned with interesting and avant-guard artwork, home to some terrific live music – this is a ground breaking concept for Boston. Situated in The Boston Center for the Arts, it is pretty much at the center of South End nightlife and of course is alongside Hamersley's Bistro and opposite B&G Oysters as well as numerous other restaurants.
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According to Bertil the concept is based on La Ruche (literally the beehive) which was an artist's residence in the Montparnasse Quarter of Paris, France in the early 1900s. The original Beehive was home and shelter to starving artists. Unlike the current version however, the demographic this Beehive is after is centered around well-heeled baby boomers. The overall concept is aimed at attracting them rather than a younger set. “Just like the original, we want to seat people to communicate, to have discussions and talk about everything from politics to art around our tables,” said Bertil. “We are not trying to attract foodies, but rather emulating the original Beehive, we are offering rustic and approachable fare.” How does the lyrical idea of re-creating an atmosphere of convivial conversation actually work in reality, especially given Boston's rather insular approach to dining. “That's what is fantastic. We have been very successful in generating a real sense of community and communication. It's great to get people off the Internet and their phones and provide a relaxed environment where conversations can flourish,” he explained.
The interior of the Beehive is impressive. The bare brick walls, adorned with all kinds of artwork create a rich rather than stark feeling. There is a small dining area and bar on the ground floor, and a larger bar, dining section and performance stage downstairs in the basement. It's not dark and dingy however as one wall of the basement is all glass and looks out onto a small patio. Unlike many restaurant concepts that offer live music, the restaurant is large enough for you to get away from the sound if you are not interested in the music on offer or just fancy a quiet meal. If you have ever been to the Beatles starting venue, the Cavern in Liverpool then you will feel right at home.
“We change the artwork on about a monthly basis, both as it's sold and to reflect a changing mood,” said Bertil. This seems to lend a sense of momentum and energy to the restaurant. Over the course of my two visits the interior felt surprisingly different. Combined with the very diverse musical program there is little chance of the place seeming stale to guests. Is it a nightclub or a restaurant? How about neither, but both. To explain, for most diners this is a restaurant with live music, for a late night crowd it's a nightclub with great food. Somehow they are able to transition from one to the other without a pause. The gentle co-mingling of office workers desperately trendy young people and relaxed casual diners are a proof point that this location has a very broad appeal that resonates with Boston diners on a number of levels.
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The food is a key ingredient here, it's hard to create a relaxed bohemian attitude if the menu does not encourage it. So, what's the menu concept? We asked Rebecca Newell the new executive chef.
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What does she cook? “Fun food that people really want to eat,” chirped Rebecca. She is an irrepressible personality, literally buzzing with enthusiasm about her food and the Beehive. “I am proud of our burger, it comes with crispy fried tobacco onions, so good! On top of the burger is an aioli with a Port wine and Madeira reduction. It's served with a big pile of frites,” she said. The menu offers grilled cheese, and a number of comfort food type appetizers. It's a bit hard to avoid fried food, but the menu certainly is eclectic. Rebecca is the second tenant of the executive chef's role at the young Beehive. She had the luxury of passing a fresh eye over the original menu and then adding her own spin. From a original menu that was very “eclectic French” the menu has expanded to include such delicacy's as fried chicken, paella and that delicious sounding burger. There is something very appealing about a chef who is so totally enthusiastic about her menu. “The owners want fun, quick food that make guests want to come back over and over,” Rebecca said. The menu features seasonal items and they watch carefully for dishes that are not selling well. The market drives how long things get to stay on the menu. “If it's not selling, then changing it is the best way to manage the menu and keep it fresh,” she said. Rebecca feels empowered to drive the menu and experiment. She keeps a eye on both cost and impact on the line staff, but other than that is open to almost anything. “Simple rustic food!” she emphasized. “People don't come back regularly for foo foo food.”
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As you sit at the expansive bar, made up from recycled wood, and look out over the restaurant you can't help but feel that this is a great idea, that someone should have had long ago. We have written often about one of our favorite entrepreneur Darryl Settles, who is one of the partners in the Beehive. You can sense his impresario and restaurateur influence. It's mainly the space, the brick walls, the artwork and the drapery around the stage that lend the place the kind of atmosphere that makes you want to return over and over again, especially if you are fond of live music.
How does Beehive do on our concept meter? Well it's certainly not a venue that would be easily replicated. The building is unique. The rest of the concept has withstood the rigors and realities of opening and still sticks closely to its Parisian roots. The menu has evolved and settled in to an eclectic combination of regularly changing dishes that are a testament to the enthusiastic talents of Rebecca.
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Overall this really is a unique concept. It may well be an idea that could be replicated, but somehow I think not – it's just too unusual. Of course as with anything that breaks with accepted dogma, it may very well be that this is the ultimate reason Beehive stands out and is successful in a very competitive and crowded market. |
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General Business 
